Tree Service Questions, Answered

For most trees here, late winter to early spring is ideal, before the new growth comes in. But safety pruning, like clearing a branch off the roof, can happen any time. Tell us the tree and we’ll tell you the right timing.

Around here it’s often stress — our hot, dry summers are hard on native oaks, and so is too much lawn watering right up against the trunk. Root fungus and pests like mistletoe are common in valley oaks too. Some of it is fixable and some isn’t, so it’s worth having someone take a look before it gets worse. Tell us what you’re seeing and we’ll come out and give you a straight read.

It’s split. PG&E maintains the high-voltage lines that run pole to pole, usually at no cost to you. But the service line from the pole to your house, and any trees on your property, are yours to deal with — and that’s the work we handle. We take down trees and limbs near structures and lines piece by piece instead of dropping them, and we coordinate with PG&E when a job is close to their equipment.

Yes. In our area, California law and Placer County’s rules call for up to 100 feet of defensible space around your home — thinning trees, clearing brush, and limbing up so fire can’t climb into the canopy. We handle that clearing and the haul-off, and we’ll walk the property with you to sort out what needs to come out and what can stay.

Yes, cleanup is included. We haul off the branches and debris and rake the area so your yard’s clear when we leave.

It depends on the tree’s size and how hard it is to reach. We give you a clear price in person, for free, before any work starts. See the cost section above for rough ranges.

It comes down to the tree’s height and how hard it is to reach. A small tree in an open yard runs around $300 to $600. A big one tight against the house or the power lines can run $1,400 to $2,500 or more, especially if a crane’s involved. Most jobs land between those. See the cost section above for the size breakdown. Those are area ballparks, not your quote. We give you an exact price in person, for free, before any work starts.

It comes down to the tree’s size and how hard it is to reach. Most trimming around here is priced per tree, not by the hour. For a typical yard tree you’re usually looking at somewhere around $150 to $800+, with small trees on the low end and tall or hard-to-reach ones higher. Big jobs near the house or power lines can run more. Those are area ballparks, not your quote. We give you an exact price in person, for free, before any work starts.

Most single stumps run around $100 to $400+, priced by the stump’s width, not by the hour. Extra stumps in the same visit are cheaper, often $40 to $60+ each. Wide or hard-to-reach stumps run more. Those are area ballparks, not your quote. We give you an exact price in person, for free, before any work starts.

It’s priced by the lot — a light brush job and a dense, sloped acre are very different work. A small brush clearing can run a few hundred dollars; a dense residential lot often runs into the low thousands+. Density, slope, access, and hauling all move the number. You get an exact price after a free on-site walk-through, before any work starts.

More than the same job booked in advance, because of the speed, the after-hours work, and the extra care a damaged tree on a structure takes. The size of the tree and how it fell drive the rest. If it hit your house, insurance may cover part of it. You get a clear price before any work starts.

The assessment is free. We come look at the tree, tell you what’s going on, and give you a clear price on any work you decide to do. No charge to find out where you stand.

Late fall and winter tend to be a little easier on the wallet. Once the leaves drop the tree is dormant, the canopy’s lighter, and most crews are less slammed than they are after summer storms, so it’s often a good window to book a non-urgent removal. If it’s a hazard, though, don’t wait for a season — a leaning or storm-damaged tree gets handled as a priority call. Tell us what you’ve got and we’ll tell you honestly whether it can wait.

People use them to mean the same thing, and that’s fine. If you want the technical split: trimming is more about shape and clearance, pruning is more about the tree’s health, like taking out dead or crossing limbs. We do both in the same visit, so you don’t have to sort out which one you need.

Most healthy shade trees do well with a trim every 3 to 5 years. Faster growers and anything near the house or lines tend to need it more often. We’ll tell you straight what yours needs and when, not put you on a schedule you don’t need.

Sometimes. Some trees are protected by type, size, or where they sit on your property, and some aren’t. You’ll know whether your removal needs a permit before anyone touches the tree, so you’re never on the hook for a surprise. A protected tree doesn’t get cut until the paperwork’s sorted.

Yes. Tight removals near structures and lines are a big part of what we do. We take the tree down in sections from the top and rig each piece to the ground instead of dropping it. Anything touching the high-voltage utility lines is the power company’s job to handle first, and we’ll flag that before we start.

Grinding chews the stump down to 6 to 12 inches below the soil and leaves the roots in the ground to rot out over time. Removal pulls the whole stump and root ball out, which leaves a big hole and costs more. For almost every yard, grinding is the better call. You only need full removal if you’re building or replanting right on the spot.

Grass, yes, once we top the spot with soil. A new tree in the exact same hole is trickier, because old roots and leftover grindings sit in the way. For that, deeper grinding or full removal is the move. We’ll tell you which before we start.

Get everyone out and away from it, and stay clear of any downed power lines — treat every line as live, and call your utility and 911 if one’s involved. Then call us at (916) 809-8733 and tell us what happened. If it’s safe, snap a few photos for your insurance. Don’t climb up or try to cut it yourself; a tree under that kind of tension can move fast.

Often, when the tree hit a covered structure like your house, garage, or shed in a storm. Coverage is usually capped, commonly around $500 to $1,000 per tree, and a tree that only fell in the yard usually isn’t covered. Every policy’s different, so check yours. We give you photos and an itemized invoice for the claim either way.

A certified arborist is a tree specialist who’s passed a professional exam, usually through the ISA, covering tree biology, diagnosis, and care. They assess a tree’s health, identify disease and pests, and recommend treatment, pruning, or removal. The tree-health work on this page is that kind of work: figuring out what’s wrong with your tree and what to do about it. If you specifically need a formal written report from a certified arborist, mention it when you call and we’ll point you the right way.

Bare branches while the rest leafs out, a thinning canopy, mushrooms or fungus at the base, peeling bark, and early or off-color leaf drop. A new lean or lifting roots can mean it’s becoming a hazard. Any of those is worth a look, the sooner the better.

Clearing the brush, undergrowth, dead vegetation, and small trees off the lot, then hauling it away so the ground’s usable. Bigger trees that need to come down first fold into the job. The goal is a clean, level lot when we leave — not a knocked-down pile for you to deal with.

Yes. Lot prep is a big part of this. Your growth gets cleared and leveled so the ground’s ready for a build, a fence, planting, or whatever’s next. Tell us what’s going in and it gets cleared to match.